Gaelic in the Mountains walk

Gaelic in the Mountains
Arran Mountain Festival walk. May 21 2012.

Crossing North Sannox Burn, the name being
a mix of English, Norse and Gaelic

Apparently Gaelic has about as many words for mountains as the Inuit are reputed to have for snow. For example, beinn (Beinn Nuis) refers to a mountain, whilst mullach (Mullach Buidhe) means a top specifically, and torr (Torr Nead an Eoin) is a hillock. (Don’t be put off by the terrifying spellings; the sounds are much easier.)

A lesson in pronunciation ....... or not!!!

Andy Walker, head forester of the Forestry Commission Scotland on Arran and leader of our AMF group doing the Gaelic in the Mountains day, explained why Gaelic is so important to his work: the Gaelic names actually contain far more precise information about the land than any OS map. For example, the Gaelic name of one particular burn at North Sannox translates as “the burn with the fist-sized pebbles”.

Views into Garbh Coire (rough corrie), and
along the Creag Dhubh ridge to Sail an Im (Heel of Butter)

The wild and empty glen we walked through was once full of people tending their cattle; Andy showed us the ruins of their summer sheilings. We climbed up the graceful Cuidhe Mheadhonach ridge to the summit of Caisteal Abhail where we enjoyed almost 360 degree views in the sunshine over mainland Scotland and other islands. The pace was leisurely and bird sightings included a golden eagle and a male hen harrier. Co-leader Jo Totty pointed out tiny wildflowers amongst the heather: yellow tormentil, pink lousewort and purple milkwort, and explained how they were used in past times; again illustrating the intimate knowledge of nature of the Gaelic people.

A view from Caisteal Abharil

The infamous Ceum na Caillich

We also learned that garbh, dubh coires are to be avoided because they are rough and dark, and that the translation of Ceum na Caillich as the Witch’s Step is maybe a bit unfair - caillich means an old woman and is used in the Gaelic for owl (cailleach-oidhche, old woman of the night). I pictured a wise woman, collecting bunches of tormentil to ease troubles. The people of Sannox had to leave their beloved land for a new life in Canada because of the Clearances. I hope their ghosts could hear the words of their language ringing out in lively conversation in the glen today.


Kathy Mawson